:root{--paper:#f9fcf4;--ink:#1f1a14;--ink-muted:#1f1a1499;--ink-faint:#1f1a1466;--rule:#1f1a1424;--accent:#3e5a3e;--tag-work:#cec399;--tag-blog:#b6d3da;--tag-travel:#86c946;--tag-food:#f69b89}*{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0;padding:0}body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;min-height:100vh;font-family:Montserrat,system-ui,sans-serif;font-size:15.5px;line-height:1.65}body.menu-open{overflow:hidden}.hero-screen{text-align:center;will-change:transform, opacity;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:24px;min-height:100vh;padding:60px 40px;display:flex;position:relative}.hero-title{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:.5px;margin:0;font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:96px;line-height:1.1}.hero-welcome{max-width:520px;color:var(--ink-muted);margin:0;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:18px;line-height:1.7}.hero-nav{flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;gap:40px;padding-top:24px;display:flex}.hero-nav a{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:2px;text-transform:uppercase;border-bottom:1.5px solid #0000;padding-bottom:4px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s,border-color .2s}.hero-nav a:hover{color:var(--accent);border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}.hero-scroll-hint{color:var(--ink-faint);letter-spacing:3px;text-transform:uppercase;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:11px;animation:2s infinite heroBounce;position:absolute;bottom:40px;left:50%}@keyframes heroBounce{0%,to{opacity:.5;transform:translate(-50%)translateY(0)}50%{opacity:1;transform:translate(-50%)translateY(8px)}}.layout{grid-template-columns:280px 1fr;min-height:100vh;display:grid}.main>section,.main>.featured,.main>.rule,.main>.fora-cta{opacity:0;transition:opacity .8s,transform .8s;transform:translateY(40px)}.main>section.visible,.main>.featured.visible,.main>.rule.visible,.main>.fora-cta.visible{opacity:1;transform:translateY(0)}.sidebar{border-right:1px solid var(--rule);flex-direction:column;align-self:start;gap:32px;height:100vh;padding:44px 48px 32px;display:flex;position:sticky;top:0;overflow-y:auto}.site-name{letter-spacing:.5px;color:var(--ink);font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:32px;line-height:1;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s;display:block}.site-name:hover{color:var(--accent)}.sidebar-block{flex-direction:column;gap:10px;display:flex}.sidebar-heading{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.5px;color:var(--ink);font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:700}.sidebar-text{color:var(--ink);font-size:14px;line-height:1.65}.sidebar-nav{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);flex-direction:column;gap:10px;padding:20px 0;display:flex}.sidebar-nav a{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:.2px;border-bottom:1.5px solid #0000;width:fit-content;padding:4px 0;font-size:15px;font-weight:500;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s;display:inline-block}.sidebar-nav a:hover,.sidebar-nav a.active{color:var(--accent);border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}.sidebar-links{flex-direction:column;gap:8px;display:flex}.sidebar-links a{color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);width:fit-content;padding-bottom:1px;font-size:14px;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s,border-color .2s}.sidebar-links a:hover{color:var(--accent);border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}.sidebar-footer{color:var(--ink-faint);margin-top:auto;padding-top:24px;font-size:12px;font-style:italic}.main{max-width:1080px;padding:60px 80px 60px 72px}.intro{padding:8px 0 30px}.intro h1{letter-spacing:.5px;color:var(--ink);margin-bottom:24px;font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:56px;font-weight:400;line-height:1.15}.intro p{color:var(--ink);max-width:680px;font-size:17px;line-height:1.7}.rule{background-image:linear-gradient(90deg,#1f1a1426 50%,#0000 50%);background-repeat:repeat-x;background-size:10px 1px;border:none;height:1px;margin:8px 0 36px}.section-title{color:var(--accent);letter-spacing:.3px;margin-bottom:24px;font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:26px;line-height:1}section{padding:8px 0 20px}.tag{text-transform:lowercase;letter-spacing:.8px;color:var(--ink);vertical-align:middle;border-radius:20px;padding:4px 10px 2.5px;font-size:11px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.4;display:inline-block}.tag.work{background:var(--tag-work)}.tag.blog{background:var(--tag-blog)}.tag.travel{background:var(--tag-travel)}.tag.food{background:var(--tag-food)}.hashtags{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin-top:6px;display:flex}.hashtag{color:var(--accent);letter-spacing:.3px;cursor:pointer;font-size:12px;font-weight:500;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s}.hashtag:hover{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:underline}.filter-search-row{background-image:linear-gradient(90deg,#1f1a1426 50%,#0000 50%),linear-gradient(90deg,#1f1a1426 50%,#0000 50%);background-position:0 0,0 100%;background-repeat:repeat-x;background-size:10px 1px;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px;max-width:1080px;margin-bottom:32px;padding:18px 0;display:flex}.filter-row{background:0 0;border:none;flex-wrap:wrap;flex:1;gap:22px;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex}.filter-row a{color:var(--ink-muted);letter-spacing:.3px;cursor:pointer;font-size:13px;font-weight:500;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s}.filter-row a:hover{color:var(--ink)}.filter-row a.active{color:var(--accent);font-weight:700}.search-box{color:var(--ink-muted);flex-direction:row-reverse;flex-shrink:0;align-items:center;gap:8px;transition:color .2s;display:flex}.search-box:hover,.search-box:focus-within{color:var(--accent)}.search-box .search-icon{flex-shrink:0;transition:transform .2s}.search-box:focus-within .search-icon{transform:scale(1.1)}.search-box input{width:120px;color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:.3px;background:0 0;border:none;border-bottom:1px solid #0000;outline:none;padding:4px 0;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:13px;transition:width .3s,border-color .2s}.search-box input:focus{border-bottom-color:var(--accent);width:200px}.search-box input::placeholder{color:var(--ink-faint);font-style:italic}.featured .tag{margin-bottom:18px}.featured .title{letter-spacing:-.4px;color:var(--ink);margin-bottom:14px;font-size:28px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.2}.featured .desc{color:var(--ink);max-width:620px;margin-bottom:12px;font-size:16px;line-height:1.7}.featured .date{color:var(--ink-muted);letter-spacing:.3px;margin-bottom:20px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500}.featured-visual{aspect-ratio:5/3;width:100%;max-width:480px;margin-top:12px;overflow:hidden}.featured-visual img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;display:block}.featured-more{margin-top:16px}.featured-more a{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.2px;color:var(--accent);border-bottom:1.5px solid #0000;align-items:center;gap:8px;padding-bottom:2px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;transition:border-color .2s,transform .2s;display:inline-flex}.featured-more a:hover{border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}.featured-more a svg{width:24px;height:10px;transition:transform .2s}.featured-more a:hover svg{transform:translate(6px)}.item-list{flex-direction:column;display:flex}.item{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);grid-template-columns:84px 1fr auto;align-items:start;gap:20px;padding:16px 0;display:grid}.item:first-child{border-top:none;padding-top:4px}.item .tag-cell{align-items:center;padding-top:2px;display:flex}.item .body h3{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:-.1px;margin-bottom:3px;font-size:16px;font-weight:500;line-height:1.4}.item .body h3 a{color:var(--ink);background-image:linear-gradient(var(--accent), var(--accent));background-position:0 100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:0% 1.5px;padding-bottom:2px;text-decoration:none;transition:background-size .3s,color .2s}.item .body h3 a:hover{color:var(--accent);background-size:100% 1.5px}.item .venue{color:var(--ink-muted);font-size:13px;line-height:1.5}.item .date{color:var(--ink-muted);white-space:nowrap;letter-spacing:.3px;padding-top:2px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500}.post{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);grid-template-columns:140px 1fr auto;align-items:start;gap:24px;padding:22px 0;display:grid}.post:first-child{border-top:none;padding-top:6px}.post-cover{aspect-ratio:4/3;color:var(--ink-faint);text-align:center;background:#ebe4cd;justify-content:center;align-items:center;font-size:11px;font-style:italic;display:flex;overflow:hidden}.post-cover img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%}.post-body h3{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:-.2px;margin-bottom:4px;font-size:17px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.3}.post-body h3 a{color:var(--ink);background-image:linear-gradient(var(--accent), var(--accent));background-position:0 100%;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:0% 1.5px;padding-bottom:2px;text-decoration:none;transition:background-size .3s,color .2s}.post-body h3 a:hover{color:var(--accent);background-size:100% 1.5px}.post-body .excerpt{color:var(--ink-muted);max-width:520px;margin-top:4px;margin-bottom:8px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.6}.post-date{color:var(--ink-muted);white-space:nowrap;letter-spacing:.3px;padding-top:2px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500}.see-more{margin-top:20px}.see-more a{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.2px;color:var(--accent);border-bottom:1.5px solid #0000;padding-bottom:2px;font-size:13px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;transition:border-color .2s;display:inline-block}.see-more a:hover{border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}.body-text{color:var(--ink);max-width:620px;margin-bottom:20px;font-size:16px;line-height:1.7}.body-text a{color:var(--accent);border-bottom:1px solid var(--accent);text-decoration:none}.fora-cta{max-width:800px;margin:0 0 20px -30px;padding:50px 70px;position:relative}.fora-frame{z-index:0;pointer-events:none;width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}.fora-content{z-index:1;position:relative}.fora-button{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:8px;font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:24px;line-height:1.2;text-decoration:none;transition:transform .2s;display:inline-block}.fora-button:hover{transform:translate(4px)}.fora-cta p{color:var(--ink-muted);margin:0;font-size:13px;line-height:1.5}.fora-arrow{vertical-align:middle;width:25px;height:20px;margin-left:8px;transition:transform .2s;display:inline-block}.fora-button:hover .fora-arrow{transform:translate(6px)}.city-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(180px,1fr));gap:24px;margin-top:20px;display:grid}.city-card{color:var(--ink);flex-direction:column;gap:14px;text-decoration:none;transition:transform .2s;display:flex}.city-card:hover{transform:translateY(-3px)}.city-card-image{aspect-ratio:4/3;background:#ebe4cd;border-radius:4px;width:100%;overflow:hidden}.city-card-image img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .4s}.city-card:hover .city-card-image img{transform:scale(1.05)}.city-card-info h3{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:.3px;margin-bottom:4px;font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:28px}.city-card-info p{color:var(--ink-muted);margin-bottom:6px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.5}.city-count{color:var(--accent);letter-spacing:.5px;text-transform:uppercase;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:600}.other-cities{flex-direction:column;margin-top:12px;display:flex}.other-city{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);color:var(--ink);grid-template-columns:1fr auto auto;align-items:baseline;gap:20px;padding:14px 0;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s,padding-left .2s;display:grid}.other-city:hover{color:var(--accent);padding-left:6px}.other-city:first-child{border-top:none}.other-city .name{letter-spacing:-.1px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:16px;font-weight:500}.other-city .count{color:var(--ink-muted);font-size:13px}.other-city .arrow{color:var(--accent);font-size:13px}.places-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(200px,1fr));gap:20px;margin-bottom:20px;display:grid}.place-card{flex-direction:column;gap:12px;padding-bottom:20px;display:flex}.place-image{aspect-ratio:4/3;background:#ebe4cd;border-radius:4px;width:100%;overflow:hidden}.place-image img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .3s}.place-card:hover .place-image img{transform:scale(1.03)}.place-info h3{color:var(--ink);margin:0;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:17px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.3}.place-header{flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:10px;margin-bottom:8px;display:flex}.place-header .tag{position:relative;top:-2px}.place-category{color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:.8px;text-transform:lowercase;background:var(--tag-food);border-radius:20px;padding:4px 12px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:11px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.4}.place-image-empty{justify-content:center;align-items:center;padding:20px;display:flex}.place-image-empty span{color:var(--accent);text-align:center;font-family:Mynerve,cursive;font-size:22px;line-height:1.2}.place-excerpt{color:var(--ink-muted);margin-bottom:12px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.6}.place-actions{letter-spacing:.3px;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:16px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500;display:flex}.place-link{color:var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);padding-bottom:1px;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s,border-color .2s}.place-link:hover{color:var(--accent);border-bottom-color:var(--accent)}.fora-link{color:var(--tag-travel);border-bottom:1px solid var(--tag-travel);padding-bottom:1px;text-decoration:none;transition:opacity .2s}.fora-link:hover{opacity:.7}.photo-gallery{columns:3;column-gap:24px;margin-top:20px}.photo-card{break-inside:avoid;margin-bottom:24px;display:block}.photo-card img{border-radius:4px;width:100%;height:auto;transition:opacity .2s;display:block}.photo-card a:hover img{opacity:.85}.photo-card figcaption{flex-direction:column;gap:4px;padding-top:10px;display:flex}.photo-card .photo-caption{color:var(--ink);font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:14px;font-style:italic;line-height:1.5}.photo-card .photo-location{color:var(--ink-muted);letter-spacing:.3px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:12px}.photo-card .photo-blog-link{color:var(--accent);letter-spacing:.3px;margin-top:4px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:12px;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s}.photo-card .photo-blog-link:hover{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:underline}.back-link{color:var(--ink-muted);letter-spacing:.3px;margin-bottom:32px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500;text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s;display:block}.back-link:hover{color:var(--accent)}.post-full{max-width:680px;margin:0 auto}.post-full .hashtags{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:16px}.post-title{letter-spacing:-.5px;color:var(--ink);margin-bottom:12px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:34px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.2}.post-meta{flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-end;gap:14px;padding-top:2px;display:flex}.post-header-meta{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start;gap:0;margin-top:20px;margin-bottom:20px;padding-bottom:24px;display:flex}.post-header-meta .post-date{color:var(--ink-muted);letter-spacing:.3px;font-size:13px;font-style:italic}.post-header-meta .tag{align-self:flex-start}.post-meta .post-date{padding-top:0}.post-meta .tag{border-bottom:none;align-self:flex-end;text-decoration:none}.post-content{color:var(--ink);font-size:17px;line-height:1.75}.post-content h2{color:var(--ink);margin-top:40px;margin-bottom:14px;font-size:22px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.3}.post-content h3{color:var(--ink);margin-top:28px;margin-bottom:10px;font-size:18px;font-weight:600}.post-content p{margin-bottom:20px}.post-content a{color:var(--accent);border-bottom:1px solid var(--accent);text-decoration:none}.post-content a:hover{color:var(--ink);border-bottom-color:var(--ink)}.post-content img{max-width:60%;height:auto;margin:32px auto 8px;display:block}.post-content .photo-scroll img,.post-content .photo-grid img{max-width:none}.post-content img+em{color:var(--ink-muted);text-align:left;max-width:60%;margin:0 auto 32px;font-family:Montserrat,sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:italic;line-height:1.5;display:block}.post-content em{font-style:italic}.post-content strong{font-weight:600}.post-content blockquote{border-left:3px solid var(--accent);color:var(--ink-muted);margin:24px 0;padding-left:20px;font-style:italic}.post-content ul,.post-content ol{margin-bottom:20px;padding-left:24px}.post-content li{margin-bottom:6px}.post-content .photo-scroll{scroll-snap-type:x mandatory;justify-content:safe center;gap:12px;max-width:100%;margin:32px auto;padding-bottom:8px;display:flex;overflow-x:auto}.post-content .photo-scroll img{scroll-snap-align:start;flex-shrink:0;width:auto;height:400px;margin:0}.post-content .photo-grid{columns:3;column-gap:8px;max-width:100%;margin:32px auto}.post-content .photo-grid img{break-inside:avoid;width:100%;height:auto;margin:0 0 8px;display:block}.post-content hr{border:none;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);margin:32px 0}.post-full-wrap{max-width:680px;margin:0 auto}.hamburger{z-index:200;border:1px solid var(--rule);cursor:pointer;-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(8px);background:#f9fcf4b3;border-radius:8px;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;width:44px;height:44px;padding:12px 10px;transition:transform .2s,background .2s,opacity .4s;display:none;position:fixed;top:20px;right:20px}.hamburger:hover{background:#f9fcf4e6}.hamburger span{background:var(--ink);transform-origin:50%;border-radius:2px;width:100%;height:2px;transition:transform .3s,opacity .3s;display:block}body.menu-open .hamburger span:first-child{transform:translateY(8px)rotate(45deg)}body.menu-open .hamburger span:nth-child(2){opacity:0}body.menu-open .hamburger span:nth-child(3){transform:translateY(-8px)rotate(-45deg)}.doodle-mobile{display:none}@media (width<=900px){body{font-size:14.5px}.hero-title{font-size:64px}.hero-welcome{padding:0 20px;font-size:16px}.hero-nav{justify-content:center;gap:16px 20px;max-width:300px}.hero-nav a{letter-spacing:1.3px;text-align:center;flex:none;min-width:65px;font-size:12px}.layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.sidebar{background:var(--paper);border-right:1px solid var(--rule);z-index:100;width:280px;height:100vh;padding:60px 32px 32px;transition:transform .3s;position:fixed;top:0;left:0;overflow-y:auto;transform:translate(-100%)}body.menu-open .sidebar{transform:translate(0)}body.menu-open:before{content:"";z-index:50;background:#1f1a1459;position:fixed;inset:0 0 0 280px}.main{max-width:100%;padding:48px 40px;font-size:14px}.hamburger{opacity:0;pointer-events:none;display:flex}.hamburger.visible{opacity:1;pointer-events:auto}.intro h1{font-size:38px}.intro p{font-size:15px}.featured .title{font-size:20px}.featured .desc{font-size:14px}.section-title{font-size:22px}.item{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:8px}.item .date,.post-date{padding-top:0}.post-title{font-size:26px}.post-content{font-size:14px}.post-content h2{font-size:18px}.post-content img,.post-content img+em{max-width:100%}.filter-search-row{margin-bottom:0 0 32px 0;background:0 0;flex-direction:column-reverse;align-items:stretch;gap:0;padding:0;display:flex}.search-box{border-bottom:none;width:100%;padding:0 0 12px}.search-box input{width:100%;font-size:14px}.search-box input:focus{border-bottom-color:#0000;width:100%}.filter-search-row .filter-row{gap:14px;padding:18px 0;position:relative}.filter-search-row .filter-row:before,.filter-search-row .filter-row:after{content:"";background-image:linear-gradient(90deg,#1f1a1426 50%,#0000 50%);background-repeat:repeat-x;background-size:10px 1px;height:1px;position:absolute;left:0;right:0}.filter-search-row .filter-row:before{top:0}.filter-search-row .filter-row:after{bottom:0}.post-list{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:20px;display:grid}.post{border-top:none;flex-direction:column;gap:8px;padding:0;display:flex}.post:first-child{padding:0}.post-cover{aspect-ratio:4/3;border-radius:4px;max-width:100%}.post-body{flex-direction:column;gap:4px;display:flex}.post-body h3{margin:0;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;line-height:1.3}.post-body .excerpt,.post-body .hashtags{display:none}.post-meta{flex-direction:row;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-top:2px;padding:0;display:flex}.post-meta .post-date{padding:0;font-size:11px}.post-meta .tag{padding:2px 8px;font-size:10px}.photo-gallery{columns:1}.main{flex-direction:column;display:flex}.fora-cta{order:999;max-width:100%;margin:10px -4px 0 0;padding:36px 40px 50px}.fora-button{margin-bottom:12px;font-size:18px;line-height:1.3}.fora-cta p{max-width:100%;font-size:12px;line-height:1.6}.city-grid,.places-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:16px}.place-card{gap:8px;padding-bottom:8px}.place-actions{gap:10px;font-size:12px}.place-header{flex-flow:column wrap;align-items:flex-start;gap:4px}.place-header h3{flex:initial;min-width:0;font-size:15px}.place-header .tag{flex-shrink:0;margin-top:0;padding:3px 8px 2px;font-size:10px}.view-toggle{align-self:flex-start;width:fit-content;margin-top:-14px;margin-bottom:20px}.doodle-desktop{display:none}.doodle-mobile{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}}